Tales of the Cocktail 2011 New Orleans

Bourbon Street, famous for crazy partying, Mardi Gras and great food. Tales of the Cocktail is a convention and competition where bartenders and enthusiasts come to meet, greet and drink in one of the most historical places in the U.S. for the cocktail movement. Birthplace of the first American Cocktail, the "Sazerac", New Orleans is home to thousands of bars and restaurants, each with their own fame and fortunes stories.

My husband and I began our journey at The Bourbon House for a TOTC Spirited Dinner. The Bourbon House is owned by a prominent New Orleans family, the Brennans and is home to "The Bourbon Society". They have an incredibly extensive bourbon selection and well versed bartenders who are passionate about the booze that they consume and sell. Our dinner was hosted by Jeffrey Morgenthaler (a specialist in Barrel Aged Cocktails from Portland) and Bridget Albert (author of "Market Fresh Cocktails"). There we were treated to a four coarse dinner featuring a bacon wrapped sausage, a quail dish, stuffed pork chops and a baked alaska. Each coarse was paired with a Bourbon Punch. The Bourbons were supplied by Heaven Hill, the distributors of many well known Bourbons such as Elijah Craig and Jim Beam.



Jeff and Bridget came up with some interesting combinations using different simple syrups, sparkling wine, juices and sorbet. Each cocktail had a unique flavor profile while using virtually the same portions of the five components that make up a Punch.

A "Punch" must contain five ingredients:

1. Alcohol

2. Sour

3. Sugar

4. Spice

5. Weak

We also had the pleasure of meeting sixth generation Master Distiller, Parker Beam.





While we are on the subject of Bourbon, check out the bottling components that are used to create

Four Roses Bourbon.

We had the pleasure of attending a Four Roses Tasting at the Hotel Montelone in the French Quarter, head quarters for TOTC. The tasting was headed up by Master Distiller, Jim Rutledge ("Mr. Four Roses"). Four Roses was one of the front runners and a top producer in the early 1900's but was removed from the US market in 1950 for about 40 years while it was introduced and quickly became the top Bourbon in European and Asian markets. There are seven tiers currently being produced, check out their website at Four Roses Bourbon.

There was great shwag at the tasting, including the beads, T-shirts, stir spoons and of coarse mini cocktails. Four Roses has a wonderfully floral and mellow profile that is easy drinking and great for mixing. I recommend using it with St. Germain Elderflower liqueur or swapping in the Dolin Blanc in a Manhattan to real give optimal results with this feminine style Bourbon.

Processco

A unique feature of the Hotel Montelone is the Carousel Bar that actually rotates! Very cool, and slow but I certainly couldn't endure the spinning for long. And I was a little disappointed with very irritated bartenders who clearly were not enjoying their steadily busy bar.



Negroni- Equal Parts Gin, Sweet Vermouth & Campari
Garnished with an Orange Zest and I'll take mine with some bitters





Barrel Aged Cocktail Seminar

hosted by

Jeff Morgenthaler & Tony Conigliaro

This is a concept that I can really get on board with. These guys are actually aging cocktails in glass and in oak barrels. Their seminar was extremely informative. The history of the aged cocktail dates back to the 1800's when cocktails were bottled and sold so that patrons could enjoy their favorite libations when they were away from home. References have been found in the Jerry Thomas Bartender Guide. In the 1900's club cocktails were being stored in aged wood as a means of preservation. This concept on the modern spectrum, is extremely new and in its infantile stages of what could be developing in the future. We had the pleasure of tasting three different Barrel Aged Cocktails, a Negroni, a White Manhattan and a Tequila Cocktail involving Absinthe. I'd love to go into everything that we learned at this Seminar, but watch for future blogs after I give this concept a go for myself. I am currently working on a glass aged cocktail, but I can't wait to get some of my ideas into a Barrel. If you are interested in getting more of the specifics of this process, please shoot me an email and I will share what I learned or at least get you in touch with someone who has more experience.

We went to an incredible Pisco tasting for La Diablada (The Devil's Dance Between Angels & Demons) where we were introduced to a couple different Pisco Cocktails that represented the different styles of varietals used to make Pisco. Here are just two varietals featured:

Quebranta- A Lima Region desert varietal similar to Cabernet. It is watered only once a year and yields a non aromatic varietal with earthy and smokey notes

Moscatel- The "Sofia Loren" of grapes, indigenous to Italy, it is the original grape used to make Pisco. Floral and light, the moscatel is soft and sensual

La Diablada was the most well balanced and subtly complex Pisco that I have ever had. I loved the way each of the flavor profiles could be accentuated in different cocktail profiles.

We learned about H2O Cocktails that are essentially just Vodka and Infused Water. There are no sweeteners added at all, so they are very low calorie drinks with fresh and easy profiles. I like to think of it as a great alternative to serve at the bar rather than those damn Skinny Girl Margaritas. <insert eye roll here>

I'm going to take a moment to tell you about a wonderful restaurant that you absolutely cannot miss if you make it down to New Orleans, The Commander's Palace.

Let me start off by saying that the service was impeccable. We were wandering through the Garden District around dinner time and happened to stubble on this place through a hit on Urban Spoon. We walked into the restaurant and were greeted by the Maitre De who informed us in a most gracious southern tone that we were not up to dress code due to my husband's shorts (mind you, it is blazing hot and humid in New Orleans and you are damn crazy to be in pants), disappointed, we turned and hit the pavement. Only to be stopped by Kenny, the valet who commented on our situation with the shorts and told us that he lived just around the corner and would be more than willing to lend my husband a pair of his slacks--- unbelievable! I could never imaging this sort of thing happening in Reno or in Sacramento. Luckily, they fit and we were back on our way into the restaurant in a matter of minutes. We were seated in a glass garden seating area that was build around two huge trees that were apparently not eligible for removal. Our server, Chris was a pleasure and was one of those servers who took the time to read his customers and offer great suggestions and give customized service. We enjoyed our five coarse Chef's Tasting and Wine Pairing immensely. My personal favorite was the hand pulled mozzarella with Cajun garlic spices served with caramelized bacon topped toast points. It was unbelievable--- no words, really. We also had Blackened Red Fish atop of corn risotto and braised short rib pesto raviolis. I was pleasantly surprised to be offered non-Napa wine as my pairings, so refreshing. The tasting included a cocktail, that although was not my cup of tea, I was happy to discuss the profile and thought process behind it with Chris. Turns out that the restaurant grows many of their own herbs, including three different types of basil. Overall it was an incredible experience, don't miss this hot spot where many of today's respected Chef's have cut their teeth (Emeril).

Crawfish Soup







Hand Pulled Cajun Mozzarella



As far as the party scene goes on Bourbon Street... it's everything you would imagine it to be. Craziness, drunkenness and general mayhem--- even on a Tuesday night. I can't even imagine how insane this place gets during Mardi Gras. We made our way through a lot of bars, The Old Absinthe House was interesting to see, although I was a little disappointed with their Absinthe selection, I was expecting more. We went to Pat O'Brian's, we checked out a ton of little places and even saw what claims to be the oldest bar in the US, which still had no power. The history alone was amazing, then you add the booze, all good. I do have to say that the service on a whole was not great. I'm sure that the staff on Bourbon Street gets fed up quickly with drunken shenanigans, but hey, that's the nature of the business. I was not impressed by knowledge or even hospitality. The bums on the street would probably help you out more than most of the bartenders that you are tipping. Once you get off the main drag, the service improves immensely. We really enjoyed the Palace Cafe on Canal Street.

They have a great Peter's Planter's Punch that was a winner in Tales of the Cocktail last year. The staff was really friendly and helpful and they also do an amazing crab claw dish that you would be crazy to miss.

Really great stuff. We also stumbled into a little place called K-Joe's for lunch one day and were pleasantly surprised by a good hearted waiter who helped us pick out the best things on the menu and gave us some in house made crackers that had a Cajun honey sauce and cream cheese for dipping. The wings at this place were to die for.

Another great place was Muriel's Jackson Square. The first round of service was absolutely terrible. It took our waitress half an hour to even take our drink order. But once we got the food, the experience improved ten fold. They had a fabulous Yellow Fin Carpaccio and this crumbly Gouda cheese thing. I also loved the Blackened Red fish.

Back to the drinking here for a minute, we got to go to some really fun and interesting tastings. The wristband was all inclusive so we were buzzing around from tasting to tasting grabbing up free samples and shwag all along the way. Made for a very fun way of experiencing a lot of different things in a short amount of time. We also attending the Milagro Tequila pool party which or coarse got way out of hand. It's one thing going to a pool party with a bunch of regular people who drink on normal levels, but with a huge group of seasoned professionals... we drank that place dry. There were bartenders slinging out tequila cocktails faster than you could imagine. What was great, was the little mini cup cocktails--- we got to taste a whole bunch of different mini drinks and still maintain in a sea of bar tending sharks.

Gotta Love the Hendrick's. They did a drink with vanilla ice cream and nutmeg that was frothy and delicious.



We had Kahlua for breakfast in the form of mini espresso cocktails in the tiniest stemware you have ever seen. And of coarse drank gallons of Milagro at the pool party. The cocktails had various combinations of sparkling wine, passion fruit, orange juice and fresh sprigs of thyme.

 

 

 

 

Throughout the trip, I couldn't escape a feeling of awe and a sense of wonder that comes with New Orleans. Tales was amazing, but the city itself breathes life into the event. You could never do it all in one trip and we look forward to returning year after year to this incredible event. I learned so much and have so many things that I want to try for myself and bring back to my home bar. I can't wait to be a second timer so that I can more effectively build my schedule. This was a wonderful experience and I recommend that anyone who truly is passionate about bar tending, or drinking, make their way to Tales of the Cocktail.

 

 

Gin... You Love it, or You Hate it

Although, I do have to say that most Gin haters simply don't speak the language-- it's generally an ignorant hatred rather than a truly researched opinion. Now this responsibility does not fall on the shoulders of the patron, but rather the average bartender who can only manage to name two cocktails involving gin-- a Gin and Tonic and a Tom Collins. Most bartenders instinctively reach for the Grey Goose when someone orders a Martini not even knowing that the recipe calls for gin and that the use of vodka is a modern mutation.

Extremely under-used in contemporary cocktails, gin has fallen by the way side-- and tragically so. Being of the same family as its much duller and socially acceptable brother, vodka, Gin is the original "flavored spirit." Gaining its notoriety in America during prohibition when bootleggers where doing any and everything to make their moonshine drinkable, Gin has a unique and stunningly complex structure. The Juniper Berry is the main flavoring agent, accented by a variety of citrus and spice notes. Each distiller's recipe is generally top secret and distinct in nature. We could go into the whole process of how it is made, and although it is interesting, you can go ahead and google it if you think that will help you sell this spirit. I have another method to introduce the less popular and socially awkward little family secret.

MAKE GREAT COCKTAILS WITH IT!

It's that simple. If you can sell them by showing them, with your persuasive bartender nature, you will have them drinking out of the palm of your hand and gazing upon a whole new horizon of cocktail potential. Negroni's for the sophisticated drinker, The Last Word for your adventurous guest, and something spritzy and fun like a Capone for the young buck crowd.

Negroni
1.5 oz Gin
.75 oz Sweet Vermouth (Try Dolin Rouge or Antica for different flavor profiles)
.75 oz Campari
Dash of Bitters (Flavors make for interesting twists)
Stir and strain over ice or up or you can serve it tall on the rocks and add soda water
Garnish with a Flamed Orange Zest-- Always a crowd pleaser

Last Word
.75 oz Gin
.75 oz Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur
.75 oz Green Chartreuse
.75 oz Fresh Lime Juice
Shake vigorously and double strain up
Garnish with a Lime Twist
(Final Say is the same portions subbing Yellow Chartreuse for the Green and Lemon for the Lime, also very refreshing and little more approachable for those who need to be eased into this cocktail)

Capone
1.5 oz Gin (Hendrick's for this one)
.75 oz St. Germain Elderflower
.75 oz Honey Simple Syrup
.75 oz Fresh Lemon Juice
5-7 Slices of Fresh Peeled Cucumber (The skin can be too bitter, some people prefer an English Cucumber, I don't)
Muddle the Cucumber and Lemon in a tall glass, add rocks and build cocktail. For the guys I just top it with soda water, but for a feminine touch a little dry sparkling wine such as Prosecco adds a lot of appeal.
Garnish with Slices of Cucumber, you can have fun with the Garnish if you have time or are trying to impress your guest. Cucumbers are extremely versatile garnishes... Google it (just make sure you have your child friendly settings lined up if you are at work).

In closing, I have some brand recommendations for you, just the tip of the iceberg, but it's a good place to start.

Hendrick's - a crowd favorite to the experienced gin drinker, its more than subtle cucumber notes make this gin particularly refreshing and add a little some thing to rounding out the dry finish with a crisp little burst that screams Drink More!

Broker's London Dry - I would deem this "Varietally True" And if everyone could pop their gin cherry with this brand, the world would be a better place. Exceptional balance for the juniper to citrus ratio, this Gin is a wonderful cocktail gin. Plus the bottle comes with its own hat, can't beat that with a stick.

Right Gin - Extreme orange and citrus notes here. Its breaks tradition, but man it makes a great Martinez. If you are going to drink your Gin straight, the zest in this product really makes it easy on you.

Old Tom - Check this stuff out, a sweet gin, rather than the more popular London Dry, its flavor profile is approachable and refreshing. Often referred to as "The Missing Link," sweet gin bridges the gap between what we know as gin and its predecessor Jenever from Holland, the original spirit from which gin was born.